2001 BMW 3 series 4WD 4dr X

2001 BMW 330ci, , 127,000 miles, 5-speed manual transmission, Exterior: Titanium Silver, Interior: Grey Leather, Interior Trim: Titanium Shadow, ------------------------------------, I have owned the car for a little less than a year, and have only put approximately 4,000 miles on it. Within my ownership, the following items have been addressed (all repairs were done by me, with the exception of the subframe repair):, , + Subframe was inspected by BMW of Ann Arbor, and a small crack was found. Repair of the subframe was taken care of Stony Creek Collision. While in for repair, the right rear caliper was also replaced due to be broken during process, + Intake camshaft position sensor replaced with genuine BMW sensor, + Transmission fluid changed with Royal Purple Synchromax. Rear differential fluid changed with Royal Purple Gear Oil 75w90, + Oil change. 7QTS Mobil 1 Ow40 Full Synthetic. OEM BMW oil filter. ECS Tuning Magnetic Drain Plug (meant to catch small metallic particles and shavings in oil). [12/24/10 123,721 miles], + Air filter replaced during oil change., + Exhaust camshaft position sensor replaced. 'Meyle' sensor, + Fuel filter replaced. OEM Mahle fuel filter, + Power steering flush with Castrol Dex/Merc ATF, + Cabin air filter replaced with Bosch charcoal filter, + Battery replaced. Duralast 49-DL [5/16/11 126,140 miles], + Suspension overhaul. New OE BMW ZHP front struts and rear shocks (all four). New Meyle HD front strut mounts and rear shock mounts. New springs all around with necessary hardware (gaskets, dust boots, bump stops, etc.). New Sway bar links and bushings. [Total value of well over $1,000 for everything], ---------------------------------------------------------------------------, Known items taken care of by previous owner between 100,000 - 120,000 miles:, , + New clutch assembly (includes clutch plate, pressure plate, throwout bearing, etc.), + DISA Valve, + Lower intake boot replaced (frequently torn, and can cause rough idle and trigger codes), + New brake pads and drilled rotors. (pads still have about 75% of their life left), ----------------------------------------------------------------------------, , Cons or items that need to be addressed:, , - Some small rust spots around wheel well/ fender, and under trunk. Visible rust isn't very noticeable, and mostly just small bubbling of the paint. The rust is purely cosmetic and hasn't afflicted the frame or drive-ability of the car in any way. I know rust is a killer, but the spots are small and can be taken care of for a couple hundred dollars if need be., - A few door dings and paint scratches that are to be expected from a car of this age. Paintless dent removal can remove the small quickly and inexpensively, - SES light is on due to a faulty thermostat. The t-stat has been stuck open for a couple weeks and has been throwing the P1028 code. The car is perfectly safe to drive, but you probably want to take care of it before the weather gets really cold, otherwise it will just take longer for the car to warm up. Replacing the thermostat is a really simple and inexpensive job, but I just haven't gotten around to doing it., - Tire tread is a little of the low side. Rears could probably go a little longer, but you will probably want to put new tires on the front before the snow starts falling., - Oil level sensor is bad. It's been bad since I bought the car, but I never bothered to replace it. If you know how to check your oil level, then you don't need to rely on the sensor. The yellow oil light will stay on for about 5-10 seconds after starting up the car but goes away after that. The sensor is rather pricey for such a minimal role, so I opted to just not replace it. You can probably pick one up for roughly $60-80, and it takes about 5 minutes to replace., - E-brake shoes need to be adjusted outwards. The ebrake doesn't hold the car anymore, but I always just leave the car in gear when parked, so I've never had any problems., - Little bit of fabri